Post by ToOSk3tChY on Mar 17, 2015 9:09:45 GMT
First of all thank you to GRD 4 3L for sending this over,
What this is is tuning information taken directly from the PCARS Pit Box Video regarding tuning in that game. Will any of these tuning tips/explanations translate into FM5?.. Probably.
*Credit for all of this content goes to the creators of PCARS. Thank you.
In FM5, many people use the "fast damper" settings that control the wheel movement but they are meant to be used as "slow damper" that control the body movement (more important).
TIRE COMPOUND: Slick tires are ideal for racing in dry weather only. Softer compounds trade faster wear for increased grip. Rain tires however are grooved and optimized for racing in wet conditions. Use these in the dry and they will quickly overheat and wear out.
TIRE PRESSURE: to deal with understeer, decrease the front tire pressure. And to counter-act oversteer, decrease rear tire pressure. Set tire pressure too high or too low though and you’ll lose overall grip.
BRAKE PRESSURE: Adjusts the total brake pressure +/- .50% by changing master cylinder sizes.
BRAKE BALANCE: Increasing front brake pressure tends to create understeer whilst braking into a corner. Increasing rear brake pressure tends to create oversteer whilst braking into a corner.
BRAKE DUCT: Open the brake duct more to aid the cooling of the brakes if you find they are overheating out on the track. Be mindful that this may have a side effect of increased aerodynamic drag and reduced downforce.
TRACTION CONTROL SLIP: A higher setting here informs the Traction Control System to allow more wheelspin before activating to help stabilize the car. Lower settings here will help in bad weather conditions.
DOWNFORCE: High downforce improves cornering at high speed but sacrifices top speed from increase drag.
WEIGHT JACKER: Affects the cross-weight balance of the car. Increasing towards the front-left will result in a better left-hand turn cornering and vice versa. Use this setting for example when setting up for an oval track.
LATERAL WEIGHT BIAS: When cornering, a car’s virtual weight distribution moves laterally resulting in a higher load on the outside tires. Lateral weight bias can be used to counter that effect and provide more grip. If the location being driven has a lot of left-hand turns for example, there’ll be a high load on the right-hand tires meaning a lateral weight bias on the left would counter-act it.
LONGITUDINAL WEIGHT BIAS: More weight on the rear tires means more traction when accelerating but less on the front tires for turning. A bias towards the rear therefore can give you the edge accelerating out of corners whilst a more balanced setting can make tuning smoother.
STEERING RATIO: A low ratio here increases the speed of the steering rack meaning less input is needed to make the wheels turn. Set it higher to allow finer steering control.
CASTER ANGLE: Most cars are not particularly sensitive to caster settings, but used in conjunction with other settings, a greater angle can aid straight line driving whilst a small angle can make your car react quicker to steering.
CAMBER: Adjusts the vertical angle of the wheel. Increasing camber can have a positive effect on cornering but may impair acceleration and braking.
TOE-IN ANGLE: Adjusts the horizontal angle of the front wheels. Increase this to gain better straight line stability at the expense of responsiveness.
RIDE HEIGHT: Lowering the ride height lowers the center of gravity and increases overall stability. Lowering it too much however reduces the amount of travel before the suspension bottoms out. A higher front ride height will aid acceleration and braking whereas a slightly higher rear ride height creates a slight forward rake which will increase grip.
SPRING RATE: Stiffer springs improve the vehicle’s responsiveness but make them too tight and you may cause the wheel to lose contact with the ground in rough sections.
SWAY BARS: Increasing the stiffness can reduce body roll but potentially can cause the wheels to lift off the ground during cornering. Set both the front and rear settings stiff for fast, smooth tracks and soft for tighter, bumpy locations. Therefore a stiffer settings at the front can cause understeer whereas a softer setting can cause oversteer and vice versa for the rear.
BUMP STOP: Increase the height sparingly to prevent bottoming out due to a low ride height or stiff spring settings. A taller bump stop will stiffen the ride and make it more responsive at the expense of some stability.
SLOW & FAST BUMPS: A stiffer slow bump setting increases oversteer allowing the car to turn more sharply into corners. In contrast, a stiffer fast bump increases understeer making the car less responsive in corners. Set these accordingly based on how tight or gentle the corners are on the track you’re attacking and their frequency.
SLOW & FAST REBOUNDS: The slow rebound adjusts how quickly the chassis sets into a corner. Stiffen the front and soften the rear to reduce oversteer on turn-in and corner exits (and vice-versa). The fast rebound adjusts how quickly the wheels return to a steady state over bumps. Stiffen the front and soften the rear to reduce oversteer over bumps and kerbs (and vice-versa)
LIMITED SLIP ACCELERATION LOCK: High settings here give the car better traction coming out of corners but limit your ability to turn. Lower settings reverse this making it easier to turn but with the possibility of wheelspin on exit of tight corners.
LIMITED SLIP DECELERATION LOCK: As with the acceleration lock, higher settings make the car more stable decelerating into a corner but limit the car’s ability to turn. Lower settings improve this turning ability but make the car less stable when approaching a corner.
LIMITED SLIP PRELOAD: Adjusts the amount of built in lock before any acceleration of deceleration effects take place, as in a neutral throttle condition. Low settings here improve maneuverability whilst high settings reduce it.
VISCOUS LOCK: A more dynamic form of differential lock, a high setting here makes the clutch more resistant to movement providing better traction to the detriment of cornering ability.
RADIATOR: Radiators are the main means of cooling an engine with an open setting allowing more air to be passed to it and a closed setting means less wind resistance and therefore more speed. Many cars have water temperature gauges so monitor that to determine if the radiator should be opened more. A track with long straights and cooler weather conditions will need this to be opened less for example.
Thanks again to PCARS and GRD 4 3L
What this is is tuning information taken directly from the PCARS Pit Box Video regarding tuning in that game. Will any of these tuning tips/explanations translate into FM5?.. Probably.
*Credit for all of this content goes to the creators of PCARS. Thank you.
In FM5, many people use the "fast damper" settings that control the wheel movement but they are meant to be used as "slow damper" that control the body movement (more important).
TIRES & BRAKES
TIRE COMPOUND: Slick tires are ideal for racing in dry weather only. Softer compounds trade faster wear for increased grip. Rain tires however are grooved and optimized for racing in wet conditions. Use these in the dry and they will quickly overheat and wear out.
TIRE PRESSURE: to deal with understeer, decrease the front tire pressure. And to counter-act oversteer, decrease rear tire pressure. Set tire pressure too high or too low though and you’ll lose overall grip.
BRAKE PRESSURE: Adjusts the total brake pressure +/- .50% by changing master cylinder sizes.
BRAKE BALANCE: Increasing front brake pressure tends to create understeer whilst braking into a corner. Increasing rear brake pressure tends to create oversteer whilst braking into a corner.
BRAKE DUCT: Open the brake duct more to aid the cooling of the brakes if you find they are overheating out on the track. Be mindful that this may have a side effect of increased aerodynamic drag and reduced downforce.
TRACTION CONTROL SLIP: A higher setting here informs the Traction Control System to allow more wheelspin before activating to help stabilize the car. Lower settings here will help in bad weather conditions.
AERODYNAMICS & CHASSIS
DOWNFORCE: High downforce improves cornering at high speed but sacrifices top speed from increase drag.
WEIGHT JACKER: Affects the cross-weight balance of the car. Increasing towards the front-left will result in a better left-hand turn cornering and vice versa. Use this setting for example when setting up for an oval track.
LATERAL WEIGHT BIAS: When cornering, a car’s virtual weight distribution moves laterally resulting in a higher load on the outside tires. Lateral weight bias can be used to counter that effect and provide more grip. If the location being driven has a lot of left-hand turns for example, there’ll be a high load on the right-hand tires meaning a lateral weight bias on the left would counter-act it.
LONGITUDINAL WEIGHT BIAS: More weight on the rear tires means more traction when accelerating but less on the front tires for turning. A bias towards the rear therefore can give you the edge accelerating out of corners whilst a more balanced setting can make tuning smoother.
ALIGNMENT
STEERING RATIO: A low ratio here increases the speed of the steering rack meaning less input is needed to make the wheels turn. Set it higher to allow finer steering control.
CASTER ANGLE: Most cars are not particularly sensitive to caster settings, but used in conjunction with other settings, a greater angle can aid straight line driving whilst a small angle can make your car react quicker to steering.
CAMBER: Adjusts the vertical angle of the wheel. Increasing camber can have a positive effect on cornering but may impair acceleration and braking.
TOE-IN ANGLE: Adjusts the horizontal angle of the front wheels. Increase this to gain better straight line stability at the expense of responsiveness.
SUSPENSION
RIDE HEIGHT: Lowering the ride height lowers the center of gravity and increases overall stability. Lowering it too much however reduces the amount of travel before the suspension bottoms out. A higher front ride height will aid acceleration and braking whereas a slightly higher rear ride height creates a slight forward rake which will increase grip.
SPRING RATE: Stiffer springs improve the vehicle’s responsiveness but make them too tight and you may cause the wheel to lose contact with the ground in rough sections.
SWAY BARS: Increasing the stiffness can reduce body roll but potentially can cause the wheels to lift off the ground during cornering. Set both the front and rear settings stiff for fast, smooth tracks and soft for tighter, bumpy locations. Therefore a stiffer settings at the front can cause understeer whereas a softer setting can cause oversteer and vice versa for the rear.
DAMPERS
BUMP STOP: Increase the height sparingly to prevent bottoming out due to a low ride height or stiff spring settings. A taller bump stop will stiffen the ride and make it more responsive at the expense of some stability.
SLOW & FAST BUMPS: A stiffer slow bump setting increases oversteer allowing the car to turn more sharply into corners. In contrast, a stiffer fast bump increases understeer making the car less responsive in corners. Set these accordingly based on how tight or gentle the corners are on the track you’re attacking and their frequency.
SLOW & FAST REBOUNDS: The slow rebound adjusts how quickly the chassis sets into a corner. Stiffen the front and soften the rear to reduce oversteer on turn-in and corner exits (and vice-versa). The fast rebound adjusts how quickly the wheels return to a steady state over bumps. Stiffen the front and soften the rear to reduce oversteer over bumps and kerbs (and vice-versa)
DIFFERENTIAL
LIMITED SLIP ACCELERATION LOCK: High settings here give the car better traction coming out of corners but limit your ability to turn. Lower settings reverse this making it easier to turn but with the possibility of wheelspin on exit of tight corners.
LIMITED SLIP DECELERATION LOCK: As with the acceleration lock, higher settings make the car more stable decelerating into a corner but limit the car’s ability to turn. Lower settings improve this turning ability but make the car less stable when approaching a corner.
LIMITED SLIP PRELOAD: Adjusts the amount of built in lock before any acceleration of deceleration effects take place, as in a neutral throttle condition. Low settings here improve maneuverability whilst high settings reduce it.
VISCOUS LOCK: A more dynamic form of differential lock, a high setting here makes the clutch more resistant to movement providing better traction to the detriment of cornering ability.
RADIATOR: Radiators are the main means of cooling an engine with an open setting allowing more air to be passed to it and a closed setting means less wind resistance and therefore more speed. Many cars have water temperature gauges so monitor that to determine if the radiator should be opened more. A track with long straights and cooler weather conditions will need this to be opened less for example.
Thanks again to PCARS and GRD 4 3L